Successful project to make a DIY CS44A Phonak programming cable

For documentation purposes this is a Successful project to make a CS44A Phonak converter cable. Also see my Failed attempt to make a CS44A Phonak converter cable by Clicking -> HERE.

You need to start with a 6-wire cable, not a 4-wire cable. Note that this extension cable has the same connections as a computer keyboard or mouse. I got mine for $3.19 each from EBay user pcmicrostore. Here’s a link;

-tools needed- (multimeter) I bought this cheap multimeter at Harbor Freights for $2. Including the 9-volt battery!

-tools needed- (cutting pliers and (optional) wire stripper or some otherr wire stripper tool)

-tools needed- (soldering equipment with rosin core solder)

-tools needed- (heat shrink tubing to provide insulation over soldered joints)

-tools needed- (scissors to cut heat shrink tubing)

Test continuity/Ohms to prove that each of the 6 pins are connected. You only need 4 pins, but you need the correct 4 pins, thus start with a 6 pin cable.

Cut and strip the cable. You also need to cut away the foil/braided-wire shielding and strip the wires.

Test continuity/Ohms again to determine which color wire is connected to which pin. My results were 1=brown, 2=red, 3=orange, 4=yellow,5=black, 6=green). Pins 5 and 6 are not used for programming hearing aids so I cut those wires out.

Ready to solder. Note the small heat shrink tubing must be in place before soldering. Note that the larger heat shrink tubing (bottom of picture) must also be in place before soldering. You will need 4 hands or a soldering buddy. My wife was my soldering buddy (a term that she likes).

Soldering complete. CAUTION: The heat shrink tubing is very sensitive to heat. If you accidentally melt the tubing while soldering then you will need to take it apart to apply new heat shrink tubing. Note the connections for switching pins 3 and 4 (which you can see better in a later picture);

Pin1 brown-to-brown (same as it was before)
Pin2 red-to-red (same as it was before)
Pin3 orange-to-yellow
Pin4 yellow-to-orange

Apply heat to the small heat shrink tubing. I used a Bic lighter.

Slide the large heat shrink tubing over your splice area and apply heat to re-seal the cable.

Here are the DIY Phonak cable extensions connected between the Hi-Pro and standard CS44 cables. Note that Oticon programming cables #3 are standard CS44 cables. Thus, you could use this setup (with extensions) for Phonak and use CS44 cables without extensions for Oticon and other hearing aids.

Here are the DIY Phonak cable extensions and standard CS44 cables connected to Phonak Audeo IXs. The software (iPFG) can now detect, read, and re-program your Phonak hearing aids.

Let me point out that once you discover the the color of the wires for pins 3 and 4 this project becomes simpler. Using this particular brand of cable which has pin3=orange and pin4=yellow I can make another DIY CS44A by cutting only the orange and yellow wires and switch them to Orange->Yellow/Yellow->Orange without disrupting the other four wires.

N i c e - W o r k

:slight_smile: This is a good post about making converter cables cs44 to cs44a.
Colors of the wires vary depending on the source of the cables,
I got two 6ft. cables from cyberguys, about $3 each. draw a
picture of the connector with wire colors when you check the wires
with an ohmmeter. Then as posted, pins 1 and 2 connect straight
through, switch pins 3 and 4.

I had a hi-pro and cs44 cables that worked on my Siemens aids but
when I tried them with my new Phonaks, “no device detected”.
The converter cable fixed that. Getting the Target software for
newer Spice ‘S’ aids from Phonak is a challenge. I bought
a ‘copy’ on eBay for about 100 bucks. Had tried to buy from
hearinglosshelpco website for 75, but the product was never

This thread would be a good one to put in the DIY forum, but
I don’t know how to do that. Maybe someone can do that.

Thanks for the Info.
It works great with my Phonak Audeo

Awesome. thanks for the work on your part and for sharing this with us. I like the DIY type guys.

Take a look at this:

Thats a good idea, but I cant buy the item.
On ebay there is the folowing text: “Shipping: May not ship to Germany”

When I want to contact these russian seller, ebay sais to me: “sorry your are a german customer an you are not able to contact the seller.”
Does anybody from you US-citicens will contact the seller for me and ask him, if he is able to ship these adapers also to germany.


This is strange but I wasn’t able to contact the seller.
Here’s what I got when clicking contact the seller button (note: I wasn’t even let to type my question in):

We’re sorry we couldn’t find an answer for you. Unfortunately, this seller is not able to respond to your question. We suggest reviewing the item again to see if your answer is in the seller’s listing.

Please also note this guy is new to eBay, he has 0 (zero) feedback score.

I had no problem sending him a email
I asked him if he ships to Germany, will see if he will reply

Hello Foxhunter,
thanks for your help.
Now we know that he will ship this item also to germany.

But when I want to contact him or buy it at ebay, I will get this answer from ebay:
Sorry, this item cannot be shipped to Germany.

  • The seller has specified that this item cannot be shipped to addresses in Germany
I can´t buy and I can´t contact him, till the seller has changed the conditions for sending the item and opened for Germany.

Please can you tell him, that he has to change in ebay the destination conditions, so I can buy it in germany??
I have no chance to get a mail-contact over ebay.


Try his email:


> You need to start with a 6-wire cable, not a 4-wire cable.
okay, but how can I know a ps2 cable has 6 wires before cutting it?? Or is there no way to know this and its a surprise thing?

for this the multimeter is, right?
what kind of multimeter I need n how I use it?

Just about any multimeter will do. There are a number of tutorials on YouTube. Basically you need to do a continuity check to verify that each pin on one of the plugs is connected to a pin on the other plug.

Could you elaborate a bit? Did you mean switch the wires at pins 3 and 4 in one of the cable’s connectors? The wire-side of the connectors doesn’t look accessible in the photos. Or maybe opening, rather than cutting, in the middle, and then cut only the pin 3 and pin 4 wires and reconnect them swapped? That would shorten those two relative to the other two, although I guess that could be worked around.

I meant opening the cable cover to expose 6 wires.
Assuming the six wires are color-coded same as my cables, just switch,
Pin3 orange-to-yellow
Pin4 yellow-to-orange
without disrupting the other four wires.

I updated the original post to reflect this elaboration.

Please bear with me here as I’m a software guy and I’m prohibited from possessing a screwdriver in twenty-four states. So is this right?–

Slice open enough of the cover to remove or scrunch back the shielding to expose the wires and to perform the following steps;
Assuming, as you said, orange and yellow, cut those two, strip the ends, twist the swapped ends together, solder, and insulate each one with electrical tape (lazy man’s heat-shrink tubing);
The other uncut wires are now a bit longer than the spliced ones; kink and fold them if necessary, then use electrical tape to wrap the bundle.
Test 3-to-4 and 4-to-3 continuity.

Optional wire color test: after cutting the first wire, do an end-to-end continuity test on pins 3 and 4 to make sure one of those is now open; if neither is open, either throw the cable away or splice the two cut wires and choose another one to cut and test. If one is open, cut the other wire and test continuity on the other pin, etc.

Yes. After you have successfully made one DIY CS44A cable then the second cable is easier because you already know the color coding of the wires for pins 3 and 4.

Just found this third method mentioned along with the cutting and opening methods:

Cut the extension cable, prepare the ends and crimp them to RJ45 connector with cross connecting leads from pin 3 on one end to pin 4 on other and vice versa. Use RJ45 to connect them back together. This method is the easiest if you know how to use RJ45 and have the crimping tools and connectors available (not mentioned in material list).

Hearing aid programming cable adapter CS44 (Oticon) to CS44A (Phonak)

Hmmmmm, connecting PS2 cables with RJ45 connectors? :rolleyes:

In the link you provided the author speaks about using modular connectors. But he/she never did actually use modular connectors. Both the pictures and description shows the wires being soldered together. So he/she was speaking about an alternative method if you like using modular connectors.

But let’s poke at this a bit. You would start with the female PS2 cable end and attach a male modular connector. Then attach a male modular connector to the male end of the PS2 cable. And then what? Plug the two modular connectors together with a coupler? Something like this?

Sorry, picture got lost.

I challenge you to show us a finished/tested-working cable using modular connectors!