Thank you for this. I’ve done this before, however, I thought something was supposed to show me the battery usage under the sphere mode? I know some people say there’s a very clear definition of sound reduction when the app automatically goes into sphere mode based upon the decibel level. Any further explanation would be super. Maybe Jordan can also respond.
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I can tell AutoSense has activated the Sphere mode because speech suddenly gets really “sharp” sounding and the background noise sounds kinda weird. Everything gets almost buzzy sounding but speech is really clear and easy to understand. You can then confirm you are in Sphere mode by checking the app (as others have suggested).
To see how much battery life is left when in Sphere mode, you can only do that when you manually change the program in the app to the Sphere program. It will then show you the estimated battery time at the top of the screen.
Jordan
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I use the myPhonak App. it tells me what the battery life is in each hearing aid.
I wish my old iWatch did.
Need a myPhonak/Phonak widget on my iWatch.
DaveL
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Jordan the power domes do work well but molds will allow you to hear the higher frequencies better. These do help in noise and also if you listen to music. I used to normally fit domes but now with being able to get the higher frequencies I encourage the use of molds. And generally the acceptance is high and previous users comment on the noticed difference in the higher frequecies. You may not want that but it is something I would suggest considering.
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Thank you! I have an iPhone SE; iPad Air; 2 iMac computers, one brand new. But I’m computer challenged.
I think I have messed up a setting. I can’t transfer a photo from my iPhone SE or my new iPad Air. Doing my best. Calling it a “Senior Moment”
I’m following this thread because I shall be blessed with new hearing aids in just under 2 years. BUT they won’t supply top-end hearing aids again. I’m lucky to have them now. Workman’s Compensation, Ontario Canada.
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to ask my audiologist about this on my next visit. Are you referring to those custom titanium molds someone posted photos of a week back?
Jordan
Just saying…I should have taken the advice that participants here gave me. (I had real pain from a molded in the ear hearing aid that I bought. My first hearing aid.) I’m stubborn…didn’t listen.
Now I wish I had listened better to all of the members here. And @Neville was really patient with me.
I’m going to send a Message so I don’t hijack your thread.
DaveL
Mississauga
Yes, I was referring to titanium a bit, but maybe I was inaccurate. Acrylic can also do a great job, but titanium can be placed deeper due to the possibility of thinner walls.
Deeper placement, achieving the bony part of the ear canal, greatly decreases the occlusion effect; however, the probability of that effect is already low due to your low-frequency hearing loss.
From my experience (YMMV; I advise consulting with your audiologist), I recommend:
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Deep placement (from the deep silicone impression, at least 5 mm past the second bend of the ear canal, ideally with EasyView Otoblock).
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A pressure vent (0.6 mm diameter) - better isolation from noise, more effective digital noise reduction (AI and non-AI) and it’s easier to avoid comb filter effect.
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A longer plastic removal filament (I found the hard way that the standard 5 mm is too short!).
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Consider a shorter wire length; it gives better directivity due to aligning the two microphones on a horizontal line. I have “0R,” and it is the best for me.
See here:
I perfectly fitted a “0” length despite my rather large appearance.
It gives me even better “s” perception than the “2R” length, which is about 6000 Hz.
- I and @Eduard have chosen a rough surface for better grip in the ear canal, but I needed some time to learn myself how to insert this (more in a spiral manner than simply pushing into the ear canal)
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I pull up on the top of my ear,then slowly insert the earmold.
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I finally solved the issue I was having with wind noise and the Sphere’s while riding my bicycle. It was driving me nuts because the wind blowing on the Sphere’s made it impossible to have a conversation with another rider. I kept thinking the problem could be solved in a separate program using the wind block, noise reduction or even the Spheric AI program. Nothing worked and the wind noise was irritating.
Finally solved the problem. Bought a very cheap Lycra bike helmet sweat liner on Amazon and pulled it down over my Sphere’s. Wind gone! You still hear a bit of wind rushing by your ears but speech clarity is great and the material is so thin there are no feedback issues. Just sharing for the benefit of other cyclists on this forum.
Jordan
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I haven’t had my electric bike out.
I like your helmet! May I ask where you got it?
It looks more substantial than mine.
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If you need more colors, then a lady head band might do wonders!
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Darvel
There are helmets designed to a Dutch E bike standard NTA-8776 Certification which are rated for a higher speed level (& therefore impact).
Look on line for which helmets in your area are certified and get one of those.
I bought one for my daughter recently and it was no more expensive than the average decent helmet.
Euan
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Mine is an e-bike helmet certified to NTA-8776. I ride an e-bike.
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I used the settings in Target and it works amazingly good. I can listen to Bluetooth even in the wind.
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Hello,
I need help and would love to hear your thoughts.
I only have the device in my right ear, my left ear is dead.
When talking, I hear great thanks to the device,
I was on vacation in the sand, and I was able to hear well the conversation around multi-participant meals, friends in a restaurant, flying on a plane, etc.
My problem is hearing while hiking, that is, I walk next to different people, who are 1 meter away from me. And they are talking to each other, I felt like I couldn’t understand a word of what was said (I heard speech but couldn’t understand).
There was no unusual noise, but the noise of nature (birds, a little wind, etc.), but nothing particularly unusual.
I tried playing with different settings, such as noise, directionality, etc., but nothing really helped me to be able to walk as part of a group and be able to understand the speech.
I tried walking on the left side of the path, so that the device in the right ear would be easier, but again without success.
Jordan, thanks for the information. Since I lost my hearing in my right ear back in 1985, and I do most of the driving, or all of it, my ENT then stated to preserve the hearing in my left ear, do not drive with the window down, Of course now with a hearing aid in the left ear, its quite noisy, if i do that. O will check out the above if I ever get back on the motorcycle with my other half this summer!!! thanks Again for all your help!!!
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Ask your Audi/HIS to turn on motion sensor to the omnidirectional. It should help. Read about it to make more awareness about this feature.
If you have probably zero % WRS in quiet in the left ear - have you considered cochlear implant evaluation? It isn’t obligate you to go into surgery, but you will gain much knowledge about your hearing .
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Thank you very much,
I have the target program, where is the definition of a motion sensor?
Regarding the cochlear implant, unfortunately it is not possible to restore hearing with a cochlear implant, because I have lost hearing in that ear since I was a baby (over 30 years ago), and the nerve is already dead according to the doctor.
Fine tuning screen and click “AutoSense OS” on the green background to your left. The MotionSensor slider will then appear in the center of the screen.
Thirty years is definitely a long time, making rehabilitation harder, but not impossible.
I don’t believe the “dead nerve” statement, because there was much cutting of corners and oversimplification in communication with patients, especially in the past.
In reality, the “dead” part was the cochlea, not the nerve (it was my case).
To summarize, a cochlear implant evaluation must be performed to ensure the nerve is not damaged.
See the Facebook group here, there is many SSD people implanted after long-lasting deafness:
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