Phonak TV connector takes toslink 3.5mm. Your TV Connector should have come with one of these cables.
You want the cable that has an end that looks somewhat like a 3.5mm headphone jack at one end and a square looking end to go in the hole in your tv at the other end.
WH
Are you still sure about that model number? 
I suspect there’s some letter/number mix-ups.
Anyway, yes if you have a port called spdif then that’s optical out. But if it looks like an audio output (RCA) plug then you would need to convert that to either toslink or 3.5mm audio. If it’s square-ish and flush and you push in a little door then that’s really what you need.
The original box for the TV Connector should have included the latter.
Any electronics store would have them.
If toslink then one end might be changeable between the square-ish end and pull it off to get the 3.5mm like end.
There are some rca jacks to plug into on the bottom of tv but they are all input jacks. As Ive said the only out put audio jack is the headphone jack. I am going to look at some soundbars today and see if I can find one with both input and output jacks so I could go thru it for her sound and thru the TV adaptor for mine. pic is of the rca plugs be side the headphone jack
I tried pluging into each of these jacks in several combinations and the only sound coming out is from the small headphone jack. I wish it had a tos link but it doesn’t. So unless I and find a sound bar to go thru. I’m screwed and may have to find another tv.
@Venturer Maybe you can split the headphone jack between a set of powered speakers and the phonak tv connector. That might work acceptably for many circumstances for you. My exception in the kind of arrangement is that when the volume goes low for a period of time, the connector assumes there is no program and drops connection until volume comes back up for a few seconds. When I was using a connector with a computer for zoom and google meet meetings via headphone jack, it would drop and then I’d miss the beginning of the conversation when things picked up again. But this might work for much of TV, since they seem to hate dead air.
WH
Can you post an photo of the back of your new TV outputs? You should have an optical outlet port.
I have an old TV with a optical outlet. It’s connected to an optical splitter that has two optical outputs, one to my phonak TV connector and the other to the sound bar. I get no buzzing sounds thru my P70-UP aids.
I would suspect that coaxial is output. That’s digital not analog rca line in/out. You can convert coaxial to toslink and out to the TVC. Check your owners manual for the details of that coaxial.
Wouldn’t coaxial be antenna input?
No. Not from the picture. It’s called coaxial. It’s a digital connection much like toslink that looks an awful lot like an RCA jack. You’re thinking of the screw in coax cable like for an antenna or cablevision cable. The F Type connector.
Coaxial out is the audio out on my hitachi tv and may well be yours .This shows how I connected my tv connector with coaxial cable
The old Phonak TV Link II had a coaxial connection. It worked very well when I used the TV Link II. Clear sound.
They always used to be screw in. My Coaxial Antenna connection is just push in. It is labelled antenna however
But is the “male” part threaded? The outside facing part?
OK, I see. The cable isn’t threaded, but the outside of the receiving end is. It was in a semi hidden postion so it took some futzing to visualize.
From what I see, this tv only has 1 optical output. OP should be using that output for best sound. Those colored sockets trying to be used are labeled as inputs (like for a DVD player) from this attached diagram for this TV, see pics. I think if you just use the optical toslink cable, all will work fine.
I’m having the same problem too. My old Samsung could power the sound bar and my hearing aids. But my new Sony XR65X90J will only support one audio output at a time. I did try a Toslink splitter but it didn’t work, but I am now wondering if it was because it wasn’t a powered splitter. I tried a couple of HDMI audio extractors, but they didn’t work.
Why in this day and age do they make a TV that can’t support 2 audio outputs at once. There are a lot of us older folks out there and with us Vaby Boomers hitting the 60s too, you’d think TV manufacturers would realize they are leaving out a huge chunk of the market. I guess it proves the saying about Governments appliesto TV Executives, “You rise to your level of incompetence, the more incompetent you are the higher you rise.”
These are to connections shown in the Spec for this model.
The Headphone out will typically kill the internal speakers. If the TV has an optical port, my 6 year old Panasonic Smart TV has an Digital Audio socket. It is a small square shuttered socket, if you have that it is the one to use.
What you could do is take your TV Connector to Currys and get them to connect to that TV. It is quite possible that their Techie does not understand the problem. If it really does not have that capability then swap for one that does.
Sorry, don’t understand ‘smart’ TVs…
Seriously?
A Smart TV has internet connectivity. With that its facilities are different from a traditional over the air (OTA) TV. What is has as SMART depends on the firmware and software incorporated. There will be a number of fixed Apps, an internet connection and numerous other features, these might include the ability to freeze and rewind live OTA programmes. You may have a Voice control to things like Amazon Alexa etc.
As new features become available, such as access to Amazon Alexa, you might not be able to access these on an older set or you may have to update an App or do a firmware upgrade to the set.
I understand what a smart tv is and how they work.
I also understand my dumb tv will do the same thing with a fire stick (or others) for around $50~
