Using Oticon TV adapter 3.0

Any chance you can feed the soundbar with toslink? Digital can eliminate sources of interference.

WH

WhiteHat: I just did that, which seems to have eliminated the feedback interference. That doesn’t allow me to use the toslink with my stereo (at least directly), but it’s been ages that I’ve used my stereo receiver for amplifying the TV broadcast sound.

I’m wondering if I can use the Toslink output from the TV connector to feed my stereo. Any reason that wouldn’t work?

Should work, but they make splitters to feed your toslink to two devices at once in case it doesn’t. There are active and passive, and passive is cheaper but more likely not to do the job.

WH

Sounds like you have some kind of ground loop issue or impedance mismatch when using your analog audio connection. Not sure how you’re tapping audio from your soundbar to the TV Adapter, but if your TV has both an audio out L/R that you tap on to drive the soundbar, and a female mini plug receptable for headphones, then instead of tapping from the same audio out L/R source from the TV to the soundbar and double its duty to drive your TV Adapter as well (thereby possibly lower the impedance and sagging the load which may cause the buzzing, if it’s not a ground loop issue), perhaps you can use the female mini headphone plug to drive your TV Adapter instead. That may solve your problem because most likely the TV has a different amplifier circuit to drive the headphones jack compared to the audio out that you use to drive the soundbar.

But @WhiteHat 's suggestion to use the Toslink optical out from the TV is also a great suggestion, assuming that you have one to spare. Actually, even if you only have 1 Toslink output from your TV that’s already used for your stereo receiver, you an now use the Toslink output from the TV Adapter to drive your stereo receiver instead. If I recall correctly, the TV Adapter has a Toslink OUT that sends out the same Toslink signal it receives from its Toslink IN.

A related possible issue is Oticon’s TV 3.0 Adapter production “Revision Number.” I’ve seen photos of unit bottom tags showing Rev (= Revision) numbers 2, 4, 5, 6 & 7. Apparently units with revision numbers up to 4 were produced in Poland and starting with Revision number 5 and later production was in Denmark. So what are these revision number differences? Do/did any/all of them reflect performance differences or just component/layout changes to reduce production cost, improve durability or the many legitimate reasons industrial goods makers change product designs. Do the earliest Revision Number models maintain connections and sound as clean or have as extended broadcasting range as the latest Revisions? There is a reason for each Revision or it would not have been made. If someone from Oticon Headquarters near Copenhagen knows about these issues and reads this, please weigh in and provide some open explanation. Speculations add no value so resist the urge to reduce them to writing.

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Ha seriously, if you want an answer from HQ you could write to them directly.

Well I’d just like to point out that it’s pure “speculation” that anything mean full has changed, did the FCC ID change as well?hopefully you’ll find your answer soon.

I have a Rev.2 (purchased when I had the original OPN aids shortly after they were introduced) and a Rev.7 (came with my Real 1 aids). The FCC ID on the bottom tag is the same for each revision and two other ID type designations just below the FCC ID (IC and CMIIT ID) are also the same. The firmware for the two revisions are different (2.1.1 and 2.2.0) but the Genie 2 Updater shows both with a “STATUS” of “Up to date”. I haven’t noticed that they perform any differently but I am not a musician or serious music listener. I do find that the TV Adapters make it easier for me to follow dialog, especially when the speaker has a different accent than that I grew up listening to (central California). The only problem I’ve had with mine is the USB power supply that came with the original unit failed - an old Apple iPad power adapter with an appropriate cable has worked fine.

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Thanks for confirming this, this I was wondering about.