I have looked on here but don’t think I have found the right answer, so I apologise if I am repeating an earlier question.
Anyway I have had an Audiogram done (typical veteran hearing loss apparently) and have bought a resound one rt961 series aid.
I want to program them myself. In part as I am in France a lot, but don’t speak enough French, but want to be able to deal with issues as I travel.
So what do I need, I think it’s an airlink2 and Aventa, or smart fit. But do I need software to update the Airlink two or will windows do it? Or Noah link? Is this right?
I have seen an airlink 2 for sale and a dongle, I assume the dongle is Airlink 1?
Any help welcome, I am computer literate if a bit behind the times as I mostly use iPads now. But I do have laptops to hand- at least one is windows 7, not sure what the other is. My g/f has a windows 10 and a chrome book.
I cannot pm as I am new account, having denied hearing loss for ages, so any software shortcuts please send to me rather than ask me to pm you.
As I write this I saw a Noah link and made the rash decision to buy it- hope that is the way to go…
Welcome to the forum, all you need is SmartFit ( it has Aventa but you don’t need it for the ones)
You can use the Airlink 2 which is a Noahlink wireless, most Airlink 2 are already updated with the firmware to use, but it’s super easy to update anyway, if you go Noahlink wireless you won’t need to worry about this step.
Read the user guides for SmartFit and how to program the ones as it’s very handy for setting up the first time, don’t worry everything is super easy to follow, anything else just ask or post a new topic in DIY hearingtracker forum.
Hi
Thanks for the great answers, they should set me up. I have read the guides, at least partially, and think I will try the hearing aid test setup- ie the beeping in the ears etc and see how that goes as I can always use the audio gram later.
I was surprised that was even an option but we will see how it goes once I get everything delivered and set up.
I confess I will print out all relevant sections first as I still work better with paper, ironic really as I was using the forerunner of the internet in the 80’s. So over 40 years of it can still not break pen and paper….
Now if I can only follow instruction……
Ha ha your a lot like me then, I still write everything down as well, give me a book any day!
Well, got a Noahlink wireless as stated, and downloaded the smart fit to a windows 10 laptop- it did say would run on a 7, and charged the hearing aids. Just waiting for m-rie things in order to start playing….
I also read the smart fit 1.18 guide, but it does not mention the self “test” to get an audiogramme using the hearing aids themselves….
When you are in SmartFit and connected to your Ones, go to the Patient tab and you will see that the second option is then “in-situ fitting”. This is what you are looking for.
Thanks, I did find a section on the web but that seemed to say can only be done remotely and only the remote user can click heard/not heard.
Unless someone can tell me differently?
But at least I know where the button is now……
So are you saying your still unable to preform your in-situ fitting? It’s easy enough to do as @david.hendon has mentioned, it doesn’t have anything to do with “remote session” which is something different,it’s preformed within SmartFit no internet needed.
No, I have not had a chance to try yet as the m&rie sensors/receivers/speakers have not arrived yet….and I am not home this weekend….
Ok no problem, keep us posted on how you get on.
As @tenkan says, it’s done in SmartFit and it’s nothing to do with a remote session. Don’t forget that mostly the user doesn’t have access to SmartFit whereas when you DIY you are effectively both the patient and the audiologist, so normally a user would indicate when they hear and the audiologist presses the “heard” button, unless they have a button on a lead for the patient to press.
Anyway it does work perfectly fine - I have often used it myself.
Well finally got round to trying- and failed.
I need to calibrate them, dfs as they are m-rie, but it fails. It did work once on the left but I switched to auto fit and then even the left failed.
Any ideas?
Hi there, could you show a screenshot of the exact message you get when you do this, it usually fails if the fit is not good, as in the domes or mold leak out too much sound.
You can’t use Autofit if you haven’t put in your audiogram because it has nothing to fit to. I suggest that you input your audiogram and take it from there. Maybe DFS calibration will work then.
After that you can refine the fitting using in situ fitting.
And of course you need to have well fitting domes as Tenkan says. You could try a larger size and give them a good push into your ear canal so they seal well.
The fit makes sense, I finally got a result with my finger over the ear……
I have a small open dome which is tight to get in, but have now ordered some of the power domes- again in small. But I might order some medium ones.
I tried auto fit when the manual fit did not work, so I don’t think the other route would work. I did get the test route working and generated an Audiogram. Initially a guided one, then a manual one. I admit I was not sure wether in manual you marked first you did not hear or last you could hear.
But I do have something working now to my partners relief- the tv is set to a lower volume……
You definitely need to read a user guide on programming your HAs, it’s very helpful for the very situation you find yourself in.
Hi all.
I did read the guide before starting, and it did make things a bit easier, but it’s still one of those that playing helps.
Well got the power domes and it did calibrate. I re did all of the self Audiogram stuff and it changed it somewhat- strange. Now I have a buzzing so need to do again. It appears to be related to my ear to be honest- if I pull the mic away from my ear at the front it goes away, so I might need to go rie.
One question though, I connected to iPhone and played some queen. Horribly distorted even at a can just hear volume.
That seems strange to me as played normally it’s not. Is this a feature of the m&rie being at the edge of its performance as I suspect, according to grayed out area in graph.
I might well try some rie ones- before I do can anyone confirm the size numbers of resound ones. They are 0,1,2,3,4,5 do these relate to “wire” lengths? I can not find any other reference to size (rather than performance) I have size 1 but they are a tiny bit short in wire for my ears- partially as my ear canal goes up……which I think maybe causing the buzzing as the mic picks up vibes from my ear lobe….
Anyway confirmation of what those numbers mean and which was is longer would be nice.
Hi there, can you post your audiogram as this would help, if you know that your at the “limits” of the M&MIE then I would change out for the standard type receiver, a power one by the sounds of it, and yes the length is determined by the numbers, 1 is short so go for size 2 or 3.
So this iPhone streaming issue, the iPhone does have settings for adjustments before changing settings in SmartFit, and phone calls ok?
For the streaming I have not tried a phone call yet. I tried the streaming just to try it. I was surprised that the sound was so quiet, when I turned the volume up (on the phone) it was crazy distorted. I played with the settings both on the phone and on the resound app. But nothing improved it.
I have ordered some higher power receivers, both because of this issue and because of the other issues. It might not make any difference of course……
It interesting that the “noise” I am getting (which I think is from the in ear mic because if I touch it I get it) is intermittent, and there if a move anything, but after an hour or so seems to go away.
Yeah so it needs to be adjusted in SmartFit first.
Changing the receiver level is not going to do it, it may help but the actual adjustments need to be done in SmartFit, have you got the user guides for SmartFit, if not I’ll send them to you if you want.