However, those who need UP-receivers must go with cShells.
What are “UP-receivers”? All I know is that my fitter replaced the original receivers with ones I think she called “power receivers?” I only remember the word “power” but maybe there was a word in front of it that I didn’t catch or don’t remember.
P for power. UP receivers are even more powerful.
I used the word “modular” earlier in the post. For better or worse I use it to mean that you can take it apart into its separate pieces to do some service by yourself. It is comparing molds where you can and cannot. This is specific to my experiences comparing PhonakC-Shells, Siemens/Sivantos Click Molds, and Phonak Slip Tips. All are molds. Always been acrylic/hard except the new KS9.0 made by Phonak which is silicone. All have small vents. Below will help separate and understand.
Phonak C-Shell - I had what would be these in the current day and were on my Ric Phonak Micropower IX aids. Except for replacing an external wax trap and change batteries, you could service not at all. The receiver was set ib the shell and the backing was epoxied. So if you needed a new receiver or any repair it had to be sent back. They look to still have these and the same restrictions would apply. If you need an Ultra-Power Receiver it looks that this is your only choice. Guessing that the receiver size is too big to use click system used by both Click Mold Siemens or Slim Tip Phonak. I think that the new titanium may change this in near days as it is way stronger and thinner and they can pack more juice in the same size. Audi’s may know better than a dumb consumer.
Siemens/Sivantos Click Molds - I had these on mt Rexton Trax 42’s/KS7. With these, one can completely swap the receiver, clean the mold. change internal wax trap, etc. The receiver is pushed into the back side of the mold. You push it out through the opening on the internal ear side with a small dowel or small punch (what I used) it is kinda protected from the punch by the replaceable wax protector. Then you are holding your mold and the ric hearing aid piece with the receiver. On my molds I have a replaceable air vent. I put the molds in the ultrasonic. Clean. New vent, new wax guards on the receiver and outside on mold - two protectors and molds clean as a whistle and new wax guards. If the receiver needs replace - separate as above and it is held in ric hearing piece with a small punch pin. Punch out the pin, separate the electric connector on the receiver wire to the aid, new receiver attach click mold and bam. You can do this on your own. I take no responsibility for errors and if not, your audi or costco can do this on site. It cannot be done on Ultra-Powers. They have to be the epoxied as above.
Slim Tip - I have these on my KS9 and went silicone with small vent. These are the same as above and I have a P receiver (not UP). They have a tool for clicking out the receiver and pushing it out does not look quite the same as/easy as the Trax. I have not taken apart yet but will either give it a run or just foot for the $15 tool. On C-Shells I believe only hard shells and UP receiver requires it.
Hope that clears up modular vs non-modular. Also my audiogram. It is on old site I believe. I start 55-60 and slope down to 80-85. Fairly flat. Lemme know if there is any other clarification I can provide. Thnx
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UP…Ultra Power receivers
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This is a soft silicone mold that is custom made. The receiver can easily be replaced. It has a P (power) receiver in it.
Many choices today. Small to large, clear to whatever color and different materials. We have many choices. Your hearing loss should dictate how tight the acoustics need to be.
Have fun with your aids.
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Yes, that is very helpful! Thanks very much for the info!
Very helpful photo and detail! Thanks!
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Just switched from Costco Brio 3 to Costco KS9’s and they perform very well (for me). Have been able to successfully pair the Bluetooth connection with a range of devices but can only pair to one device at a time. It would be great if multiple connections were possible. Also it is a pain having to remove aides and restart them every time you change to a new device. It would be far mor convenient if this could be done from the “Easy Line Remote” program. Am I missing something?.
I don’t know about the app, but depending on dexterity you could learn to open and close battery doors while they’re still on your ears.
No, you haven’t missed anything. KS9 cannot be paired with multiple devices simultaneously. The Easy Line app is primitive indeed. I only use it to adjust the volume of individual aid.
Your best bet is to leave the HA’s paired to the smart phone, so the Easy Line, and phone are ready at all times. All other audio systems can easily be accessed by using the TV connectors.
RDB
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Do the KS9s deliver phone audio to both ears simultaneously or to only one?
My understanding is that they use Classic Bluetooth to deliver both left and right sound to your right ear. Then that is divided and sent to your left ear. On phone calls I assume it is mono, while streaming stereo it should be independent left and right.
Thanks. The reason I asked is that the Phonak literature shows that the fitter can choose one ear to be the Bluetooth ear – the initial default is right. I guess that flexibility accommodates users who lose one aid, or other anomalies.
Yes, it’s ridiculous!
With my KS5s that was very easy and I could do it without calling attention to myself (for example in a waiting room sitting near a loud talker) but so far I have found it impossible with the KS9s as they snap shut so tightly.
If you can do it, what’s the secret to your success?
I don’t have KS9s, although I think I was able to do it for the brief time I had Marvels. My approach would be to play around with them off, but with my eyes closed until I became very familiar with them and could do it one handed. Then I’d try it with them on.
If the purpose of opening the battery door is to turn them off in loud noise, just mute them with a long hold on the lower button.
RDB
I had a lot of trouble with my 2nd TV connector that I plugged into my laptop, and at the time I blamed it on my KS9s’ setting for causing them to constantly ding ding without stopping. As a result, I had Costco turn off the dinging. However, I have since concluded that my blame was misplaced, as it seems that the audio port on my laptop has been progressively going bad and constantly turning the audio signal on and off. I mention this in order to agree with your recommendation to use the TV connectors as a secondary source, although in my case I will have to come up with another solution.