I’ve had that problem with my FitBit. I have a very cheap power bank (freebie from Wired subscription) that works fine with it, but my bigger ones seem to fail to detect the flow and shut down. Had the problem with some other little thing but can’t recall what, just that it would also have had a very small battery, maybe some small BT earphones?
Fred F
I have used two different battery packs with the Phonak chargers. One is a Mophie, the other an Anker. Both work fine.
The real advantage to the Phonak battery pack is the convenience of the form factor. It turns the case into a cordless charging case, very handy for travel if you are not going to be carrying an auxillary battery to charge other devices.
Jim
@oetbyg I thought KS 10 is a tad bigger than Phonak Paradise.Does KS 10 HA fits and charges in mini charger?.
Yes. I’ve used it a couple of times without problems.
Although I was advertising how cheap one could get a battery pack, I think one thing to keep in mind besides price is that Li-ion batteries are potentially little incendiary bombs. So whatever one gets, it’s good to get something that’s been on the market awhile and gets good reviews for reliability-and undoubtedly paying a bit more to get one from a reputable brand might be worth some peace of mind. I was impressed that the 25,000 mAh pack that I got on Amazon came with a testing certification from supposedly an independent firm in China testing multiple copies of the device for various failure modes and the device was certified as failing safely in all the failure modes that were examined.
I always charge my Li-ion devices when I’m around in the house and I usually try to charge them in a location where if they get very hot, catch on fire, or even explode they are likely to pose as minimal a risk as possible. My favorite charging location is on top of a inverted metal baking pan on top of a toaster oven in the cooking alcove of our kitchen, which is tiled, and the kitchen floor is ceramic tile, not too likely to catch on fire. The counter tops are Formica, though, and the cabinetry is wooden. Being into partially charging Li-ion devices, I always have a given time frame within which I plan to come back and check how charging is going. I should imagine that risk roughly rises in proportion to the size of the battery involved so if one is just talking about HA’s with possibly only ~300 mAh capacity per aid and HA charging cases with ~2,000 mAh capacity there is far less potential risk than with a 25,000 mAh battery pack that is getting towards laptop battery size.
I use a lot of Li batteries and know all too well the need for proper care and attention to charging them. Always charging when you’re there, and not overnight when you’re asleep, hoping the charger circuitry will cut off as designed is putting your trust in a less than $0.10 balanced charging chip is a setup for a granted rare, but devastating m, outcome if that fails. Always charging on a nonflammable surface is also the right way to do it.
To stop smoking I took up vaping about 5 years ago. Despite all the gum, patches, meds, hypnosis, nothing stopped my pack and a half day habit. This did. That’s not to say it’s for everyone, certainly not a non smoker, but for those who need to stop it does work as a harm reduction strategy. I use a lot of high current 20-30A Li batteries which are safe when treated with respect. I also have some devices with Lipo packs, similar chemistry but in a soft compliant case to adapt to unusual spaces where a plain cylinder won’t work. You also see them used for RC cars and drones. They represent their own challenges in safe care and feeding. So your point about not treating any large Li battery with anything other than safety first is right on target.
As for situations where say a Fitbit might not charge, it may be that the draw is below the typical 500 mA that a usb plug was created for (laptops and PCs). It’s possible power brick circuitry may view a draw below that as out of spec, and cut the current as a safety step. I don’t think I’ve ever run into that, but it is a possibility.
The other thing to remember is even if a charger/brick is designed to deliver up to 2-3A on it’s usb plug, it’s the device plugged into it that determines the current draw. Plugging an item in that can only use 500 mA to charge is safe, as it’s running the show (assuming it’s functioning properly). The charger/brick battery does not push electricity into the device, the device establishes the draw. But if you plug in something that can draw up to say 2A for rapid charging (phone, tablet, whatever) into a transformer rated to deliver only 500 mA to 1A will get a bit warm, and if cheaply made, overheat(think of those $0.99 wall warts you can pick up at 7 Eleven or a gas station, they can overheat, fail, and even start a little electrical fire and melt the plastic transformer). It’s the same reason using your laptop USB port which is rated at 500mA to charge your phone or tablet isn’t a great idea. It can overheat the port, and shorten the life of the port.
TLDR, but the bottom line is follow the instructions on charging any device, and use quality transformers and portable battery chargers to meet your needs. The instructions that come with the devices really are there to keep you safe.
I bought Costco KS 9.0s in mid March and had trouble with static on phone calls. It MAY have started when my Samsung S20FE updated to Android 11. I am pretty sure that calls sounded fine at first. As I had other issues with the 9.0 I upgraded to KS10s… I am still getting static on phone calls no matter where I make or receive them. Phonak support coudn’t help.
This sounds similar to complaints with som iPhones. Any ideas or suggestions?
check for a blueooth transmitter on the marantz amp. mine was listed under general, and connected to the ha’s
I assume you’ve tried switching BT settings in app between Fixed and Dynamic?
Do you mean fixed and adaptive on phone calls? Yes, I did. I was also having trouble with dropped calls and switched to fixed. That solved problem with dropping calls, but not the static.
Yes, Fixed and Adaptive sounds right. I know some people have had issues with static with Samsung Galaxy phones (S8 if I remember correctly) I’d work with your fitter and make sure Feedback management was run. If no success, I’d report to Samsung and see what they have to say.
I’m having the same problem with my KS10s. It’s odd that it doesn’t happen with streamed videos or music. It only happens with phone calls. My fitter is having a meeting with a Phonak representative to review it. I will be going in to have my hearing aids adjusted afterwards. I have an iPhone 11 Max.
Where is the setting in the App?
Click on the 3 lines at upper right hand corner of app. Then click on My Hearing Aids. Then click on Bluetooth phone call
Thank you…I will try that and see if it makes a difference.
It may be a setting problem, or just a quirk of your phone. I have an iPhone 7 plus and had problems with the KS9’s, but have crystal clear calls with my KS10’s.
Hi,
I have the KS 10s and have noticed that the right one’s battery drains 5-10% more, every day.
Is this normal?
Thanks,
Glenn
Can’t say for sure with KS10, but it is for the KS9. My right batteries always die sooner than my left, but mine uses disposable batteries so it makes sense that rechargeables would drain a little more. I think it has to do with the right hearing aid is where the BT streaming occurs.
The reason the right hearing aid dies faster than the left is that the right handles all the connections, and transfers sound to the left. Both the left or right can be set up to be the main controller, but it is normally the right one that they set up that way.
The right hearing aid does the heavy Bluetooth lifting. It receives the signal from the source and then transmits it to the left hearing aid. Even if you’re not using Bluetooth, it’s turned on.