Need some HELP with Hi-pro(hi-crap)

@Corona1: No I’ve not. I have the minipro. If timing were different at the time then I would definitely have got the HIPro. Because it’s the real thing. The minipro works great of course. Com ports often have to be fiddled with for the minipro too. @alpine1 is the only person I know of in my time here and somewhat recently that has made all this work. He has chimed in here. His actual end problem was something else but he got the cables and all working.

@rik.rod.business: Ok. It’s the Prolific chip and you see it. That’s something. When you disconnect it does it go away from device manager? But no mention of null modem on the product or packaging. The com port is probably fine. You could try changing it to 1 or 2. But I seem to recall the hipro/minipro type devices should work with 1-4.
In that device manager does it seem to be showing as fine? Or is there a little yellow exclamation about it?
Then there’s pinouts of all the different cables you have going on. Which is why I would strongly suggest getting the connection down to just the one cable.
As for lights…who knows? Consult your instructions or find them online to see what lights are supposed to do what.
Looking at the manual for the drivers for that product might point to incompatibility with your version of Windows. The manual shows a version of the chip and what OS it can work on. But if it is a problem then it should show the yellow exclamation I mentioned. You’d have to dig deeper to find the actual version of the chip.

From my previous post I guess I should cop to the need for another cable…the power cable. Although that seems to me to be a giant well duh. Power to the wall. USB-Serial to the computer. I was referring to connections to the computer.
Do you have any lights on the hipro?

Just the power one .

Ok then. Y’got power. The rest is the usb-serial.

Hi,
Struggling a bit with a similar issue.
Not sure what is going on, I also have a Serial Hi-Pro connected to USB (Win 10).
The Hi-Pro is detected by the Geine2 software but I cannot seem to detect the OPN-1s.

Is it safe to assume that the USB/Serial adapter is the correct type since the Hi-Pro is detected??
There is no mention of being a Null modem type though, The Cable is a CableCreation ## CD0477

Any help appriciated.
Mike

Did the cable come with the serial Hi Pro as a set (meaning it is likely tested working) or did you order a USB to Serial cable separately ( meaning is is less likely tested working)?

Can you show us pictures of your cable connections that also show the alignment markers at these two connections;

  • CS44 cable plugged into flexstrip
  • flexstrip plugged into Opn 's

I purchased the USB-Serial Cable separately.
It has a Male serial end so I have it plugged in series with the original Hi-Pro serial cable.
I have a Null/crossover cable on order:

Your CS44 cable connections from Hi-Pro to Opn’s seem correct, and aligned.

I suspect your after-market (<- so-to-speak) usb to serial cabling between your computer and Hi-Pro. See Post #13 in this thread.

eta> I believe that your Serial to USB cable/adapter/whatever needs to be capable of sufficient speed.

Have it on order, should get it tomorrow.
I’ll report back with results.

Thanks
Mike

Well, the Crap is still Crapy!!!
Acting exactly the same with Null modem cable as with the straight cable connected to the original Hi-Pro serial cable.

Hi-Pro is detected but not the OPNs.

Any additional suggestions??
Other than get a Mini-Pro:sunglasses::sunglasses::sunglasses::sunglasses:

Thanks
Mike

Maybe a StarTech USB to Serial Adapter Null Modem FTDI or similar. It has a built-in version of the FTDI USB UART Chip. btw> It is not the same as the afore mentioned/pictured cable by @rik.rod.business. I don’t believe that one from NTech had a chip.

eta: Oh, I didn’t see your StarTech picture before. So maybe it is not your USB to Serial cable.

Verify that you have cs44 cables not the visually identical cs44a. Google: cs44 pinout. Requires the use of a multimeter.

This would account for the hipro being recognized but the opn’s not.

Good point @Coroplast. His CS44/CS44a cables do look unusual?

Do you have a multi meter? You can get one cheep, or maybe free when you have a Harbor Freight coupon and you buy another tool.

Cable Pinouts for Hearing Aid Programming

I got the exact StarTech cable.
Yes have a multimeter, working on making up mini probes now.

Thanks

Hmmmmm, someone knows what he is talking about.
Coroplast,
Looks like you are correct, Thank You

I am getting the following on the cables that I have:
1-2
2-1
3-4
4-3
Pins 3&4 seem to be swapped also.
Making it like this:

Now I have to find new cables I guess.

Also in the above pictures you posted it doesn’t look like the cables are fully seated in the flex strip. Mine, phonak brand, actually snap perceptively in. We have to leave it to you to verify your nonstandard looking cables are making contact.

Cheap guys like me don’t buy new cables:

Thanks,
I feel a distinct click when connecting, that seems to be fine.
I may try to cut them open and fix them.

There is always the alternative to buy new, I hate that too!!!
No fun.:rofl::rofl::rofl:

Thanks again.

I think you will find the cables too thin/tiny to do any splicing. You might be better off splicing some old-tech Keyboard & Mouse cables like in the link provided by @Coroplast ; $36 on Ebay doesn’t seem that bad.

Yikes, I didn’t read close enough. That’s $36 per each cable.

Also, let’s take note that Phonak calls their cables cs44 despite the switch in cable wiring. If your cables are from an after market maker following the Phonak lead that might explain it.