Hearing aid program

[pvc]

they all wanted the hipro programmer, only the unitron trufit program took the icube

No that’s not quite right either. If you want to use wireless instead of a wired (mini-Pro or Hi-Pro) then you would need to use each manufacturer’s wireless programming device, such as (FittingLINK, ConnexxLink, Airlink, SurfLink, USB LINK). And that is only for Legacy/Old hearing aids. They now have other wireless programming devices like FittingLINK 3.0, Airlink 2, etc.

But that is all layed-out in the links in my thread, maybe you are not clicking or reading the blue links?? I don’t get it? And if wired you should get a mini Pro, not a Hi Pro.

and you say don’t save the changes, but how would i test those changes unless i save them to the aids? i would have to wear the changes for a few days to see how it is working out.

You would test the changes while sitting at your computer, listening to your computer speakers, or having a conversation with someone. Then, Don’t save the changes.

[pvc]

so pvc tell me if you happen to know if i get the hipro programmer i will need cables correct? can you tell me how many different sets of cables are needed or do the different companies stick to a standard? i see the talk about c44 and c44a cables which sound like the same cable but wires 3,4 are switched in the c44a? also i see some cables that have straight ends and some that are 45 deg angles on them. is there a topic that has this information in it so if i wind up with a set of aids that take phonak or resound or starkey i can then look for cables if they are not wifi or bluetooth compatible. thanks bp.

That depends on what you want to program. You can’t be expecting me to repeat my entire set of instructions (they are quite lengthy) for any and all hearing aids you might find on EBay??

[pvc]

Before we go any further, tell me what Step-3 is?

[corvairbob]

no i though you may have a link on this site for information on the different cables? i found unitron cable selection on unitron site but phonak will not share any of that info. i asked them today and they said no. and i have asked starkey and resound and a few other in the past weeks and have no luck. i don’t want to by a bunch of cables. when i get another set of aids if i need cables to mess with them a data page for the different cables would save time. i will do some research to see if i can find more info on cables just in case. if i can’t find any info then i will stick to unitron for hearing aids that i get as i now have that information. thanks bp.

[nolan3dogs]

Before you buy new hearing aids please make sure that you have or can get without cost the programming software. Also any hardware you may need (that will cost you.) Not all software is available for every aid or model.

[corvairbob]

thanks for that information. now i have a bunch of programming software thanks to pvc and others and i have the icube. so for now i will be looking for the hearing aids that can be programmed with the icube. so for now the phonak and unitron. i will keep looking for the mini hi-pro but the ones on ebay have the hi-por blackened out and i was sure pvc said to stay away from that one.

i’m still trying to get the answer for what side of the audiogram that need the hearings aids the upper right or the lower left. because when i turn on the speech spectrum and the pictograms what it shows i hear on both sides. now one of those side i have to be having issue with due to that ski slope hearing loss i have. but now one has told me yet what side is the adjusted side. maybe some one will help out yet. thanks

[pvc]

but the ones on ebay have the hi-por blackened out and i was sure pvc said to stay away from that one

No, I did not say that! They are blacked out to avoid Internet sales take-down because of copyright infringement. So they name it something else like maybe (corvairbob/Pro) and then you can buy the counterfeit and it works okay.

[corvairbob]

ok thanks my mistake you have a lot of info and some is a bit confusing at times for us novices. but thanks for correcting that error.

ebay has had a bunch listed but i’m thinking most of them are hackers. i have been finding that a lot as of late. to try and make sure the seller is a good seller now click on the feedback and see what they normally do buy or sell. the hackers are getting people with 100$ feedback and they have low numbers for transactions. and most if you look you see they have not been active on ebay for awhile. so be carefull. or if you get one and it is a fake listing you then get a message for ebay in a day or so telling you they cancel the listing and then you wait for your money. one way around that would be to get one and do not pay for a few days to give ebay a chance to figure out if the seller is for real. or the seller may contact you for payment. if the names are the same your good to go. hope this help.