My molds have the ear locks also. It’s not a stability problem though. The molds fit well and are comfortable. I just don’t think the receiver is deep enough in the canal.
New ear molds needed???
Possibly, kinda what I’m trying to figure out. I go back to audi this Friday so I’ll get her opinion then. I’ve already explained to her when using different domes that they had to be in the canal as deep as I could get them to go for best clarity.
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Receiver wire comes in sizes, they’re determined by your outer ear. Wire should go as close as possible to your skin. The angle and short part where the receiver is should go full length inside.
Difference between S and P on same wire size for example is only how long is the wire after the corner and until the start of the receiver part, but speaker itself is at the same distance from the corner on the wire.
I don’t know if different wire sizes give a bit longer in canal part. I’d expect so, but don’t have them to check.
Molds must follow the same route. So wire lay down on skin and just enter the ear canal, nothing points out.
However @tim4 one thing that also could happen is that you had dome with too long wire and pushed it inside further and you got used to that louder sound.
However, the proper way to use domes exactly is ‘push them in to the max’, wire snuggle with skin all the way.
So my suspect would also be that mold isn’t long enough. Just check if wire protudes out in any way or is snuggle fit all the way, also in canal. Receiver should be inside the canal, or for P case you can feel it just at the entrance if you put your finger. (for dome case). However molds have to give the same position.
If you have both versions, bring out the calipers and compare 
I got two molds supposedly made from the same original, and you can see by eye how different they are, no need for ruler nor calipers. Of course, one was too big and my ears hurt, and both were useless for my case. But they’ve also did not have the same length 
And yes 3d scanned and printed. But was told that after scanning they ‘adjust it’. What’s the purpose then, if I give you impression of my canal, don’t add or subtract anything!
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Custom tips first. Frequency lowering later.
Have the mold made longer.
Did your audiologist re-do real-ear verification after you got the molds? The coupling of a hearing aid to your ear changes the amplification profile and this needs to be accounted for.
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It’s not the loudness, it’s clarity, harmonic sound like speaking into a fan.
This is what I’m wondering, was the mold made as long as possible or can it be longer? What’s the standard length or is there a standard?
Molds are on the Widex Moments so she re-ran the sensorgram, did not re-do the REM though.
I find that typically the length that the manufacturer defaults when I ask for “average” is shorter than I’d like (I usually draw on the mold exactly how long I want it, but I’m picky.) You can probably have it made longer, although there are sometimes anatomical limitations to this. Sometimes you see ear canals that make such a sharp U-shape that it would be very difficult to properly insert if you do a long canal, or sometimes the canal is so narrow that the receiver has to sit out quite far because it doesn’t physically FIT in the canal. Be clear on what you want, too, because with the term “deeper” it is not always immediately clear whether the patient wants a longer canal or whether they want the face of the mold more recessed into the ear canal. You can ask for one, the other, or both and there might be limitations on one, the other, or both.
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