Analogue to your problems, I had some keys that simply hurt when playing the acoustic piano. I was able to listen to a beautiful piano after reprogramming them. It worked for Bernafon Chronos 90’s, Phonak Bolero B90’s and Phonak Marvel B90’s. I used the serial Hi-Pro for programming the first two aids and the Noahlink Wirless for the last one.
Following Chasin’s advice (Google it! We also spent quite some threads on it here on the forum. ) I lowered the G50-band (The lowest dB-band) by 6dB (Because the difference in music between the loudest and softest sounds is 18 dB rather than 12 dB as used for speech.)
Then I set the C.R. constant for all frequencies: 1.3 is recommended, however, I’ve even found 1.5 to be quite good. (Compression ratio, the difference between the amplification of the higher bands to the lowest band. E.g. If the G50 has 30dB amplification and the highest 20dB, than the louder the sounds get the more it is compressed. IIRC, the C.R. is calculated as 30/20 = 1.5. ) Now the higher harmonics get the same relative amplification as the base and the shrillness is reduced.
Of course, I disabled all smart options to mangle the sound for better speech understanding. Disabled wind, noise reduction, etc.
However, I really would play via streaming with the electric guitar. It’s useless to go from electric to sound to electric to digital to electric to sound. You could even play via telecoil, it’s mono, anyway.
About those open domes. I remember that in the old days a few people experimented with blocking the sound from the environment with the eraser from a pencil. Just make a small incision, clip it on the wire and shove it behind the dome. It was a real improvement. Nowadays, I would either change the dome whilst playing or stuff some two-component additive silicone behind it. You can get it either at a crafts store or somewhat more expensive as a mold-to-fit hearing protection for swimming or sleeping or custom fit ear-molds for ear-buds.