OPN TV Streamer or a good set of headphones?

My wife pretty much dominates the TV in the living room, so after semi retiring I’m finally getting around to setting up my office/Man cave with my own TV and reclining couch (with cup holder! lol). I Connected a Lenovo X1 headset to the BT feature of the Samsung TV, but am having a hard time getting the volume I need to understand speech. I can put my OPN’s under the headset, but I don’t notice much of a difference and it’s uncomfortable. I don’t want or need the TV speaker on when I’m watching in my office, that would interfere with her ability to watch House Wives of …

So I’m trying to figure out what to get, a good quality BT headset that gives me the speech quality I need to watch TV and movies, or am I better off getting the OPN TV steamer and just wear my HA’s?


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I have the TV adapter and do use it an really like it. But if you aren’t worried about not having the speakers too then I don’t see why not use the headphones, if they work for you. I will say this I have upgraded to the More1 aids and I don’t have to use the TV adapter as much to understand the TV. My wife can set the volume to her liking and I can adjust the volume of my aids and I am fine without the TV adapter most of the time. To be honest I am lowering the volume on my aids even.


I would suggest the Oticon TV Adapter 3 - I find it useful for understanding soft or accented speech when watching movies or TV programs. You get the appropriate correction for your loss that you would not with a typical BT headset. If your TV has an optical output (maybe called digital optical or Toslink), that is the recommended way to connect to the TV adapter. Also, many Bluetooth connected headsets have longer latency than the TV Adapter where Oticon specifies the latency from input to the adapter to output of the hearing aid receiver as 25 milliseconds for the line level analog input and 28 for the Optical input. The adapter uses a frequency hopping communication similar to Bluetooth in the same frequency band but it controls latency and has frequency response matching the capabilities of the aids (cuts off at 10 kHz as the Oticon receivers cut off below that). One option with the TV Adapter is to mute the hearing aid microphones so you hear only the signal sent by the Adapter. That tends to cut down on room noise (AC air handlers or other ambient noise) so it is easier to hear soft sounds in the program of interest.

Another option would be to get a headset/headphone with large cups that have around the ear sealing - I find a set of old Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro (closed back large cup) wired headphones work well when I’m wearing my OPN S 1 aids. For my correction with 85 db receivers and bass domes with a small double vents I do not have feedback and the sound is decent using the headphones and the OPN aids together. Those headphones are quite comfortable for me for fairly long periods. I would not use on-the-ear type headsets as the audio output is directed into your ear rather than into the microphones of the hearing aids. Also that type of headset/headphone would press your ear against your hearing aids with that possibly causing discomfort.

Good luck finding a solution.


100% Recommend the Oticon TV Adapter 3. Streaming TV directly to my hearing aids was a life changer for me. Use the Toslink. If anyone wants to watch TV with you, that person can independently adjust the volume without affecting your volume or quality of sound.

Although the TV Adapter is plug and play after pairing, there are settings to be programmed by your Audi (or yourself, if you DIY) in order to get the best sound.

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I can’t speak to the Oticons, but the Phonak tv streamer is the best thing since sliced bread.


How do you connect your adapter to the TV via the toslink port?

My adapter came with a TosLink cable. Align the cable connector correctly to the port (D shaped so it only fits one way) on the TV and push it in - it should click into place. Same for the other end into the Adapter. You may need to adjust the settings on the TV for the digital optical output - should be PCM or Dolby Digital but not anything more advanced like Atmos. If the adapter is powered on with no signal, a light (LED) will be red. When it is getting a signal from the TV, mine shows both green and blue lights.


It is what I call the fiber optic audio cable.

I have an LG monitor that has DisplayPort and HDMI inputs. I also have a USB hub that has an optical port and thunderbolt called Caldigit TSPlus. I’m unable to get tv adapter sound through the lg monitor and my LG monitor does not have an optical port

My setup:
1 My laptop is connected to the usb hub via thunderbolt for both audio and video
2 my usb hub is connected to the monitor via DisplayPort.
3 My chrome cast is connected to the lg monitor via HDMI.
4 My tv adapter is connected to the optical port

I hear tv adapter sound only through the laptop and not through the chrome cast. Do you know how I can get tv adapter sound in both laptop and Chromecast?

I know nothing about Chromecast other than what I see on the web page for it so I can’t really offer real help. My guess is you are connecting the Chromecast to a HDMI port on the monitor so any signal from the Chromecast, including audio, goes over HDMI. I don’t know the specifics of the monitor but I doubt that it can send audio from an HDMI input back over DisplayPort to the dock but that is a guess. Does the LG monitor have an audio output port (analog line-level)?

You might be able to find a device with an HDMI input that can pull the audio stream and send it out via optical or line output level (might be called an HDMI audio extractor). You might be able to put that into either the line or optical input of the TV adapter and the laptop audio stream into the other adapter input. Or look into an optical switch to select which TosLink input goes to the TV adapter (laptop via dock optical port or HDMI device that puts out audio via optical port).

The above is totally guesswork but there are probably additions to your already complicated setup that might allow what you want.

Is the TSPlus a USB or Thunderbolt dock? I have a TS3Plus that uses Thunderbolt 3 and doesn’t work with a USB connection to the computer - I use a Thunderbolt 3 active cable to connect to an iMac. The iMac audio tools allow selection of both input and output for audio. With my setup, I can see an input to the Mac from the Caldigit Thunderbolt 3 audio but I don’t have anything connected to that. From the Caldigit docs, it looks like the only audio input to the TS3Plus is a line level analog. I have a Dell UP2718Q monitor connected to the TS3Plus - for audio output one item in the long list is the Dell monitor as it supports audio over DisplayPort but the audio output from the monitor is only analog line output. That can be used to drive a sound bar and can output the sound from either the DP or HDMI output. If you monitor has a similar audio output port you could put that into the TV adapter analog stereo input.

Good luck

Just bought the 82” LG TV.
It only has one Toslink connection but a powered splitter has proven very good for the Cochlear and Phonak TV Connectors and the Zvox soundbar.

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Can you give an example or link of your powered splitter?

You and I have th same Caldigit TS3Plus dock that connects via thunderbolt. It has an optical audio port which is one of the reasons I got the device to connect the tv adapter to the laptop via thunderbolt. However it does not have an HDMI port.

The monitor does have an analog headphone audio out port but I’m not sure how to connect the monitor audio to the TS3Plus port altogether so that the tv adapter works with both the monitor audio out and laptop audio out together

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I have NOT tried this but my guess would be to run an appropriate cable from the monitor headphone output (probably a mini-stereo plug) to the front-panel audio input on the TS3Plus (3.5 mm stereo plug). Then use the computer audio tool to select the input as the “CalDigit Thunderbolt 3 Audio” (as named on my iMac) and the output as the “CalDigit Thunderbolt 3 Audio: External SPDIF Interface”. I’m not sure what the the input and output would be called on a Windows PC.

I got the Oticon TV adapter. It has worked so well for me that I now have 3 of them. And when we travel I pack one with various connections. Only twice have I run across a hotel TV that I was not able to connect to.