The HIPro datasheet recommends IOGear GUC232A. Someone else somewhere else reported that a Belkin F5U409 worked for them.
Yeah, but male to male won’t plug in.
I’m returning this to the Ebay seller…
Going for the MINIPRO faster lighter and smaller plus it’s complete
THANKS
IT’S VERY GOOD TO HAVE SOMEONE HELPING
By the way I bought Oticon alta pro model for my mom, Ebay seller told me it was good Haids want to know some feedback if someone haves and if it worth and work good???
Spent almost 400€ in a pair, hope I didn’t make a noobie move again 
Well…you still need some cables. Some vendors can sell everything as a kit though.
Alta Pro’s are good, only 1 generation back. These are BTE’s so you will need to add tubes and custom built molds. Someone will want $$ (or in your case €€) to build custom built molds. You can program them similar to this;
Programming the Oticon Alta Pro miniRITE
I tried several types of cable(in the end I believe all the cables I purchased were capable of performing the task)
and various computer settings
In the end my issues was an Oticon software glitch that wouldn’t allow opening the updater feature in a way that a normal thinking man would.
When I originally used my hipro it was with Phonak equipment. At that time I had also purchased a serial card for a desk top thus eliminating all the hastle assoc/w USB to serial work arounds.
This is where @pvc shines… If he can did you the old the of mine you may be able to garner enough detail to figure out the issue!!
Best of luck.
I’m replying to this again. I don’t think you need to be so hasty. You have the real deal rather than getting a reverse-engineered device that does indeed work (I have one). Don’t bother with all the multiple connections. Just get a female db9 (blue plastic fill not just pins) to usb-A null modem cable. Connect one thing and you’re done. Connect your cs44 and flex cables or whatever else you need to the HA’s and you should be laughing.
Some might say the serial hipro is crap and all and what with all the cables but the one null modem cable is exactly the same connections as the standard minipro usb cable. Something has to connect to the computer. That can be the usb or that can be the null modem. Done.
Edit: Yes. Right. Male device. amazonia
Yeah kinda sounds like a good idea. For the adapter you’ve got, you’ll need a null modem cable, and… well it is just a lot of grief. If you can get your money back, that sounds good.
Have you done this yourself? I recall that there’s a lot of fiddling still to do with setting com ports etc. It worked, but it was a pain.
Says prolific Usb-to-Serial Comm Port (Com3)
I see only the power light blinking not the PC one and the others from right and left
Any sugestion?
@Corona1: No I’ve not. I have the minipro. If timing were different at the time then I would definitely have got the HIPro. Because it’s the real thing. The minipro works great of course. Com ports often have to be fiddled with for the minipro too. @alpine1 is the only person I know of in my time here and somewhat recently that has made all this work. He has chimed in here. His actual end problem was something else but he got the cables and all working.
@rik.rod.business: Ok. It’s the Prolific chip and you see it. That’s something. When you disconnect it does it go away from device manager? But no mention of null modem on the product or packaging. The com port is probably fine. You could try changing it to 1 or 2. But I seem to recall the hipro/minipro type devices should work with 1-4.
In that device manager does it seem to be showing as fine? Or is there a little yellow exclamation about it?
Then there’s pinouts of all the different cables you have going on. Which is why I would strongly suggest getting the connection down to just the one cable.
As for lights…who knows? Consult your instructions or find them online to see what lights are supposed to do what.
Looking at the manual for the drivers for that product might point to incompatibility with your version of Windows. The manual shows a version of the chip and what OS it can work on. But if it is a problem then it should show the yellow exclamation I mentioned. You’d have to dig deeper to find the actual version of the chip.
From my previous post I guess I should cop to the need for another cable…the power cable. Although that seems to me to be a giant well duh. Power to the wall. USB-Serial to the computer. I was referring to connections to the computer.
Do you have any lights on the hipro?
Just the power one .
Ok then. Y’got power. The rest is the usb-serial.
Hi,
Struggling a bit with a similar issue.
Not sure what is going on, I also have a Serial Hi-Pro connected to USB (Win 10).
The Hi-Pro is detected by the Geine2 software but I cannot seem to detect the OPN-1s.
Is it safe to assume that the USB/Serial adapter is the correct type since the Hi-Pro is detected??
There is no mention of being a Null modem type though, The Cable is a CableCreation ## CD0477
Any help appriciated.
Mike
Did the cable come with the serial Hi Pro as a set (meaning it is likely tested working) or did you order a USB to Serial cable separately ( meaning is is less likely tested working)?
Can you show us pictures of your cable connections that also show the alignment markers at these two connections;
- CS44 cable plugged into flexstrip
- flexstrip plugged into Opn 's
I purchased the USB-Serial Cable separately.
It has a Male serial end so I have it plugged in series with the original Hi-Pro serial cable.
I have a Null/crossover cable on order:
Your CS44 cable connections from Hi-Pro to Opn’s seem correct, and aligned.
I suspect your after-market (<- so-to-speak) usb to serial cabling between your computer and Hi-Pro. See Post #13 in this thread.
eta> I believe that your Serial to USB cable/adapter/whatever needs to be capable of sufficient speed.