@gtremblay
You made us all curious, no desparate!
Please let us know all details!
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Since this thread is already fairly old and lenghty I will publish additionnal info on what I did, photos and the result obtained toward the end of the week on a new thread.
Let me say for now that the first one was not an easy one! But the second was a lot easyer.
It can be done. Let us go for it!
Welcome to questions.
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Looking forward to instructions on replacing batteries. Thanks.
Busy times. It is coming. Be patient.
Merry Christmas!
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Happy New Year!
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Here is the follow-up…https://forum.hearingtracker.com/t/how-to-replace-battery-in-phonak-audeo-m-50r/73215/2
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Most wires are attached to batteries with a spot welder, you can do it yourself with a decent sized electrolytic capacitor when fully charged, one lead on the battery casing and the other onto the wire you want to attach, it avoids generating heat into the battery, you don’t pass any voltage or current into the battery as it all happens at the junction between the wire and the case and that’s outside of the battery.
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Thanks for this tip!
This is interesting. Spot welding with the charge of an ecap. I have to try it out on Monday. helpful where soldering is not possible 
it doesn’t have to be this big for small wires
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It seems that spot welding a very small copper wire with a stainless steel part is very difficult. Is this true? Did you try it yourself?
Thanks
Not in this situation, I haven’t even taken a hearing aid apart yet, I’m a new user, and this info comes from building and repairing ebike batteries with nickel plated strips (that are as conductive as copper) this is why I’m suggesting trying it out on AAA batteries first. if problems occurs with copper wire first solder it to a small strip of nickel and spot weld the strip to the battery as we know that works and is something I have personally done. I did eventually buy myself a mini spotwelder for the bike batteries that is like this one.
I have noticed a trend towards these now though.
these are very cheap and may also do the job, but again I haven’t used one of these at all, let alone on a hearing aid.
On an additional note, most batteries with wire connectors on in my limited experience do not have copper wires they are a much harder stiffer material possibly steel coated with nickel.
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I think that those two contact points will remain there, but they will be hidden in the case and will be connected to the coil used for inductive charging. I don’t think that part with the contact points is changing, although from our perspective it seems like it isn’t there.
HMm; I was thinking the opposite. That is, it would need to be a “clean-sheet” new design like the Signia Pure Charge&Go AX. Though, I could be wrong about how to get a magnetic coil in there, I am no hardware engineer.
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I’m also not an engineer either, just guessing. It is logical that the manufacturer does not want to change the design a lot because it requires a lot of time to modify, so the manufacturer wants to make the change as simple as possible. Apart from that change with the inductive coil, Luminity remained the same as paradise. I think that the most changes were made in the software. There is also the possibility that they made a better PRISM chip, but limited its capabilities, ie blocked the capabilities, and later in the newer version of the hearing aid, they only unlocked those capabilities and introduced Autosense 5.0. The manufacturer does not want to make a new chip every time, it is cheaper for him to make a chip in a huge quantity. I saw that phonak, for example, doesn’t have separate chips for versions 30, 50, 70, 90, it’s all the same chip that is blocked somewhere so that you can’t use those possibilities if you have a lower technological level.
I have successfully made some spot-soldering attempts with the E-Caps.
2 x 2200uF / 35V in parallel charged with 30V. Thin-stranded wire to be welded to an old battery. I strongly recommend some tests to find the right balance: I needed several attempts varying capacity and voltage. The wire must be thin enough, otherwise, too much energy must be applied and a hole is burned in the battery case.
The devices shown above may be too powerful unless they are widely adjustable.
Important: the wires must not be connected to the HA. It would be destroyed by the high voltage applied when welding the 2nd connection.
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Very interesting.
How did you apply the electrodes? Same side?
Yes, same side. Otherwise the battery would be damaged by the high voltage. And the current would be reduced.
As shown in the picture: black wire attached with black tape. Then I touched with the red wire the same side of the battery, short spark, done.
Surprisingly the area were the black wire made contact does not show any burn-marks.
Try laying a wire on the battery them put 1 electrode on the battery case and the other electrode onto the bare surface of the wire you are wanting to attach so the spark happens to the wire rather than the battery case, i.e… the wire you are connecting wants to be already grounded to the casing of the battery.
that would be my next step, that way no voltage or current will flow to the hearing aid and the current flows across the wire you are wanting to attach rather than along that cable.
You could also charge the caps to a lower voltage
In the PCB, is there any external flash chip on it?
could you help to take a picture closer for both sides of PCB?
I was wondering what is the flash chip for hearing aid…
