Yep, got the t-coil as well. Battery life is great. My history on hearing aids are CIC - Phonak (super but got outdated}, CIC Signia - terrible fit with hearing specialist so I found a new one and went with these. My first audiologist said I should get RIC but stubborn me said no. So with a CIC you only have one mic. I swear 30% is the hearing aid and 70% is the audi or specialist. My insurace allows for a 6 week trial which is up shortly but I see no reason to switch. My insurance also provides unlimited visits for the first year so I should be good to go. I did pickup the TV streamer which is ok but honestly, these hearing aids do wonders with my surround sound. Went to a kids basketball game and I switched to noisy enviornment - wow. I could hear the refs and my daughter sitting next to me perfectly. Now if I could stop the walking I’d be set.
That is impressive! While my hearing has probably dropped a notch or two since I got my first Oticon ITE aids, they were also SUPERB when put in the “noisy joint” program. Perhaps they also had just one mic? In any case, they did wonders - and that was more than a decade ago.
Ok so I’m ignorant on this subject–I hate that word–intellectually challenged perhaps. I didn’t know that I had a receiver in the canal aid until I asked my audi this week. So I have receivers on the body of the aid behind the ear, AND one in the canal…? I have custom molds. What are the advantages/disadvantages of either design? Maybe this is a topic all its own.
You have microphones on the body of the aid. Receiver is the term used for the hearing aid speaker that is placed in the ear canal.
Behind the ear aids used for extreme losses has the receiver in the body of the aid with a hollow tube channeling the sound into the ear mold.
Thanks, Prodigyplace. Umm, is it just me, or does the term ‘receiver’ used for the ‘speaker’ seem… confusing. What you describe is what I assumed was how my HAs worked. but why is the speaker in the canal called a receiver? As Spud’s grandma used to say, will wonders never end?
wait, wait: maybe because the speaker receives signals from the BTE receivers…? still too confusing. A speaker is a a speaker. I don’t call the speakers in my home stereo system ‘receivers’.
@jeffrey: Not to get all niggeldy over details, but my Grandma SpudGunner was a highly airudyte lady. She would not have said “end”. She would have said “Will wonders never seize.”
“seize” my grandson by the neck, altho he deserves it…or will wonders never ‘cease’?
(wink emoticon here…I’m just joshin’, as my grandma would say.)
@jeffrey : No, Jeffrey - that’s “seize”, with a “Z”.
[Do you have any idea what happens to those who argue with Gramma SpudGunner, @jeffrey?]
That’s what I thought … but I’m now I refer to that “matchstick” as either the speaker or the receiver.
I would never want to fall under the crosshairs of the esteemed Madame SpudGunner, who I’m sure has an eagle eye and a quick trigger finger!
Late response here … but yes, in a nutshell the wires simply can not be changed! I’ve tried any number of DIY tactics, and the ear wire has a memory that makes an elephant’s look feeble. It will ALWAYS go right back to how it was bent.
So for me, I had to go with a shorter ear wire in order to get the dang thing to lay flatter and closer to my ear and not get tangled in fingers, combs or sunglasses. The shorter ear wire means that the mic is up higher on my ear, so I get more hair rustling, but I can live with that.
I think the only way one can get an ear wire to lay flat is if you’re born with ears that exactly match the pre-bent wires (and one poster here, Gary, was such a person!), or you try various lengths of the wire. They should be like shoe sizes - closer to our actual needs, but instead, they are made like we have 2-3 sizes of FEET - and our ears get S/M or L. DOH.
I thought the receivers were sized 0 through 4? I know I have seen 0 through 3.
Yeah, so number is length, S,M,L for the power level.
L for low, M for medium, HP for high power is what I’m familiar with regarding power levels of receivers.
Yes your right, typo, there is also P snd UP in the mix as well.
But I assumed size to correlate with length rather than the power needed.
I would find that very hard to believe. So you have both custom molds and domes and have compared them? Or you are just sticking your finger in your ear to make this determination?
I ask because going from double domes to custom molds was like turbo charging my aids. I didnt realize my aids could improve my hearing in my bad ear that well, especially after a decade of double domes.
If sticking your finger in your ear helps, just think how much improvement you will get when your aids are actually adjusted for custom molds. When you stick your finger in with domes, the aids are still programmed for domes. Once programmed for molds, with the proper vent (i use no vent in my bad ear), the lower freqs can be increased in your music/streaming program to sound realy good. Listening to music or streaming without custom domes means missing most of lower freqs. Domes, even closed double domes just leak to much.
Not exactly sure what you mean, size and length are the same thing, which is what the numbers stand for, S,M,P,UP for the strength of the receiver.
Actually it has been many years since I had custom molds but I moved from tulip domes on my old aids to power domes. I really wanted molds and will ask my new audiologist about that.